Sunday, May 18, 2025

Easy methods to Plan a Meals-focused Prepare Journey By way of Europe

There’s a sort of magic to watching a panorama roll by by a prepare window—villages, vineyards, and mountains unfolding like a slow-motion movie. In springtime, there are bushes heavy with fruit blossoms and vibrant yellow rapeseed fields. Plus, there’s loads of house to stretch your legs and time to go to the cafe automobile for a cappuccino.

In April, I had the possibility to rediscover Europe—not simply as a meals lover, however as a traveler craving deeper connection. With a Eurail Cross on my cellphone and every week of prepare journey forward of me, I boarded in Paris with two objectives: to style my method throughout 5 cities and three international locations, and to decelerate my mind to the tempo required to take pleasure in gazing out home windows, making prepare associates, and studying my lengthy, juicy novel.

My journey started in Paris and swept by Reims, Mainz, Freiburg, and Zurich, providing glimpses of Europe’s wealthy agricultural heartlands and vibrant meals scenes. Alongside the best way, I met farmers, cooks, and makers whose lives revolve across the land and seasons.

As a substitute of airports and taxis, my journey time turned a part of the story—studying, writing, and daydreaming in sun-drenched prepare vehicles, and arriving within the metropolis middle able to discover. Eurail (known as Interrail for Europeans) acts as a synthesizer of Europe’s prepare traces, connecting vacationers to 30,000 locations throughout 33 international locations.

In 2024, the highest cities visited through Eurail had been Milan, Zurich, and Rome. However considered one of my favourite components about prepare journey is the way it brings you to much less well-liked locations. All it takes is a Eurail Cross to hop on a prepare to Plovdiv in Bulgaria, with its historical Roman theater nestled into the hillside, or Aarhus, Denmark’s second metropolis that looks like a coastal secret.

Professional tip: The Eurail app additionally features a nice journey planner. Even when you don’t buy a move, you may browse routes and scope out locations.

Biodynamic Champagne in Reims, France

Hannah visiting vineyards of Champagne Augustin in Reims, France.

Hannah Howard/Journey + Leisure


Our first cease, Reims, was steeped in historical past. We dropped our baggage on the Continental Resort—simply throughout from the prepare station—and explored the Excessive Gothic Notre-Dame de Reims Cathedral earlier than hopping a commuter prepare to Champagne Augustin, a biodynamic winery tucked into the hills of Avenay. I wandered amongst vines awakening for spring and realized how nature and astrology paved the way right here, alongside gigantic crystals stationed within the barrel room and vineyards.

Emmanuelle and Marc Augustin, who come from 9 generations of winemakers, run the operation with their sons, Maxence and Arthur. We tasted eight of their Champagnes with Maxence. The wines tasted of minerals and life and one thing deeply rooted within the soil. “We respect the juice, we take heed to the juice, and in return, it provides us a lot,” Maxence stated.

All of these bubbles made me hungry. L’Further, in a sublime Nineteen Twenties artwork deco constructing, is value a cease. The restaurant is dedicated to inclusive hiring practices, providing coaching and profession paths for folks with disabilities. I used to be awed by a silky octopus terrine and an ideal dice of foie gras with candied hazelnuts.

Heirloom Apples in Mainz, Germany

Apple tasting at Appel Happel in Mainz, Germany.

Hannah Howard/Journey + Leisure


It took virtually a complete day on three trains to journey from Reims to Mainz, swerving again by Paris. The fruit blossoms had been in full glory, foreshadowing our go to to Appel Happel, a multigenerational apple farm. The air smelled of blossoms and cider. Proprietor Ilonka Happel walked us by apple, pear, and plum orchards, led an apple tasting, and poured glasses of selfmade boozy cider.

We wandered by Mainz, stopping at a parkside social gathering for graduating medical college students and the Gutenberg Museum, which explores the historical past of printing and Mainz native Johannes Gutenberg.

Dinner at Pankratz was nothing wanting revelatory: sourdough from their very own starter, smoky trout grilled over an open fireside, and greens simply pulled from their backyard. An all-German cheese plate for dessert was a standout—particularly a uncooked milk, mushroomy magnificence that oozed onto the plate. The meal celebrated hyperlocal sourcing and deep reverence for elements.

Brunfels Resort had spacious rooms and a scrumptious breakfast to take pleasure in earlier than heading again to the prepare.

Market Magic in Freiburg, Germany

White asparagus season on the the Freiburg Münstermarkt and Hannah having fun with a beer with a buddy on the Freiburg biergarten.

Hannah Howard/Journey + Leisure


In Freiburg, Germany’s Black Forest metropolis, I spent a morning roaming the Münstermarkt, held within the city sq. because the sixteenth century. With 150 distributors, the market brimmed with wild garlic, alpine cheese, native wine, and hand-milled flours. It was the peak of asparagus season, and white and inexperienced stalks had been all over the place, lined up from pencil-thin to impressively fats.

With its cobblestone streets, colourful facades, and water-filled Bächle trickling by the Outdated City, Freiburg looks like stepping right into a fairy story. It’s compact and walkable, with cafes on each nook and ivy-covered alleyways that invite lingering.

On the market, I used to be handed a slice of freshly baked rye bread topped with herbed quark, and a pot of raspberry pudding. It wasn’t only a market; it was town’s heartbeat.

One of many market’s regenerative beef farmers, Isa Blattmann, joined us for lunch at Adelhaus, an natural vegetarian spot with standout herbed spätzle. “Farming could be isolating,” she stated. “The market provides us group and connection.”

I cherished sipping a beer at Kastaniengarten, a beer backyard full of households, first dates, and associates enjoying playing cards, and watching the solar set over Freiburg’s rooftops.

Zurich’s Plant-based Brilliance

Our ultimate cease was Zurich. At Umami, an city vertical farm in a nondescript workplace constructing, we noticed microgreens grown beneath LED lights and fueled by power from fish—a futuristic method to feeding cities. We blind-tasted the zingy microgreens—The one one I acquired proper had been the spicy mustard greens. That night time, at Restaurant Freilager, those self same greens topped roasted beets, paired with smoked ricotta and biodynamic Swiss wine.

Gradual Journey, Quick Connections

What struck me most about prepare journey wasn’t simply the convenience (no baggage claims, no safety traces), however the way it fostered intimacy—with folks, place, and myself. I had time to write down in my journal. My buddy struck up a dialog with a candy French man who shared his canelles with us. I met a grandma from California. I even completed that novel.

The Eurail Cross allow us to transfer seamlessly throughout borders and languages. It made Europe really feel expansive and accessible directly. It additionally made the journey—the literal motion between meals and locations—one thing I really savored.

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